“Last night I had another dream about you / How many fucking dreams must I have about you?” Sofia Bolt (aka Amelie Rousseaux) breathily demanded repeatedly in the soundtrack. A Paris-born, L.A.-based musician who seamlessly blends classic French pop with West Coast psych, she embodied the perfect persona for Hedi Slimane’s first combined show, showcasing both menswear and womenswear during the women’s collections. This dreamy affirmation of Slimane’s sartorial journey with the new Celine man and woman lulled us into submission.
His muses could have been Mick Jagger and Anita Pallenberg from the 1968 film “Performance.” The film was initially too provocative for Warner Brothers, who shelved it until 1970, releasing it with little fanfare; it later resurfaced as a cult classic. A hedonistic escapade, it led to the breakup of Jagger and Marianne Faithfull’s relationship in 1970. Donald Camell’s script was among the first to draw parallels between aristocrats, gangsters, and rockstars, much like Slimane’s style for men and women. The cast embodied these traits with their attitude, swagger, and sex appeal.
The wardrobe’s codes were perfectly crafted cool. Boys carried handbags envied by the girls, who had mini-bags resembling lipstick cases. Both genders wore pussy bows and ruffles, paired with kick-flare blue jeans. Military details, brocade, silk blouses, velvet, and leather were prevalent. Slimane elevated his craft with dresses in stunning metallics, brocades, and simple cuff and collar embellishments. The looks were all unisex and interchangeable, though some pieces might be best suited for an aristocrat, gangster, or rockstar.
A surprise collaboration with the foundation of the late French artist César emerged, dubbed the Celine César Compression Project. This echoes the sculptor’s iconic compressions through limited-edition pendants in silver or vermeil, wearable or displayable as art objects.
This joint symbiotic vision of Slimane for the house was reassuring. Judging by the enthusiastic admiration from the young Parisian style-set in current-season Celine, this vision will undoubtedly be successful.