Today’s Dior Homme show, titled “Latenight Summer,” felt more aligned with the French term “soirée” than any late-night summer gathering we’ve attended. A procession of impeccably dressed, strikingly handsome young men showcased artistic director Kris Van Assche’s masterful tailoring. However, Van Assche was quick to share credit, emphasizing that the collection was a heartfelt tribute to the outstanding Christian Dior atelier team.
The opening look featured a waist-cinched jacket reminiscent of Christian Dior’s iconic Bar jacket, transformed into a masculine version. It was worn without anything underneath — the sharp tailoring left little room for layering — and was paired with a long ribbon scarf embroidered with “ATELIER.” This set a high standard for the rest of the collection.
The term “atelier” repeatedly appeared throughout the show, in both ribbons and prints resembling appliquéd ribboning. Shorts were so short they barely peeked out from under the jackets, and the collection included some of the finest trainers ever seen at Dior Homme. The invitation, featuring an upside-down basketball logo, made its presence known in various pieces such as jerseys, shorts, and voluminous bomber jackets, eventually overtaking the tailoring itself.
Van Assche’s signature hybrid garments were particularly innovative, with our favorite being a black tailored jacket with Bordeaux bomber sleeves. This piece featured a cropped bomber back layered over the jacket’s back, so seamlessly executed that it required a double-take to realize it wasn’t two separate garments.