Following her spectacular success at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo seemed ready to let loose at today’s Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show. The atmosphere was serene beforehand, with guests seated on all four sides of a square space. But once the music started pounding and multi-colored spotlights began swirling hypnotically, the scene transformed. Models moved six at a time, circling like sharks, only pausing briefly for photographers before resuming their private disco. The energy was electric, with everyone clearly having a blast.
The collection was audacious — filled with lurex, sequins, fun fur, animal prints, brocades, and the most incredible glitter hair by Julien d’Ys. It turned traditional tailoring on its head. Each exit featured a tailored jacket with such extraordinary embellishments and fabrics that it redefined its form. It was the most punk-inspired tailoring we’ve seen since the Teddy Boys of Kings Road. Embellishments focused on the sides of the garments, reinventing vests, with some pieces showcasing huge cut-out lace shoes. The bottoms were mostly fluid and dance-friendly, like basketball shorts, with our favorites being the slinky metallic sequins.
This show wasn’t for the faint-hearted, but then again, extraordinary fashion rarely is. Trust Kawakubo to surprise us once more with a riotous, joyous, and celebratory masterpiece — absolutely brilliant.