In a grand display reminiscent of Cecil B. DeMille’s epic productions, Rick Owens dispelled the notion that fashion shows have lost their relevance in the digital age. The experience of witnessing such an outstanding performance, with its towering 15-meter-high scaffolding runway against the majestic Palais de Tokyo, seamlessly blending fashion, music, casting, and venue, reinforced the belief that the fashion show is far from obsolete. Though moments like these are rare, they are undeniably worth the anticipation.
The show began with a small, bare-chested figure appearing on the scaffolding, moving slowly yet resolutely, framed by a tourmaline-bright sky and the sun-drenched, massive architecture of the Palais de Tokyo. He was followed by other models with diverse hairstyles and outfits that were both solemn and provocative, creating unforgettable images. The last effective use of a distant runway in fashion was by Raf Simons at La Villette in the summer of 1998.
As the models transitioned to the more traditional runway, which spanned a section of the pool typically used by skaters for daring tricks, Egyptian Lover’s 1987 track “I Need a Freak” blasted through the speakers, transporting the audience to a hedonistic realm. Rick Owens aptly described this atmosphere in his show notes as “Kurtis Blow meets Kraftwerk meets camp.”
The standout fashion innovations included modern, sexy leather chaps covering one leg, with large zippered pouches for storage, worn over tiny briefs. Futuristic tops with tarp-like pouch effects (actually woven lurex) and intricate lattice tops gave the impression of exposing the wearer’s inner workings, echoing a concept explored by Hussein Chalayan in 2002. Owens also made a bold statement with jackets, an item he regards as a “respectful uniform and a symbol of civilization.” These were either spacious yet structured or cropped, paired with wide overalls or high-waisted pants.
The show featured many of Owens’ signature elements — the oversized overalls, a greenish palette mixed with black, utilitarian pouches, and the scaffolding backdrop reminiscent of his landmark summer 2014 women’s show. Remarkably, he presented these familiar elements in a fresh light, both figuratively and literally — for the first time, he moved from the bowels of the Palais de Tokyo to its grand exterior, allowing the sun to illuminate one of the most impressive collections in modern fashion history.