Paris was scorching hot today, with editors frantically fanning themselves at the fashion shows. However, the anticipated heat from the much-hyped Y/Project spring 2018 show was noticeably absent. Designer Glenn Martens displayed a keen interest in formal men’s tailoring, a fascination shared with contemporaries like Demna Gvasalia and Martine Rose. Like them, he presented suits with broad, 80s-style padded shoulders. The collection also featured oversized outerwear in sandy tones and loose pants that tapered tightly at the ankles.
Unfortunately, the complex styling of the show often muddled its message. For instance, a roomy pale pink dress was paired with a salmon shirt, while wide-cuffed, ankle-baring tight jeans with a rippling fly were worn over suede shoes. This was a shame, as many pieces, when viewed individually, were quite impressive: from elegant, preppy herringbone-patterned V-neck sweaters to striking ruched sportswear. The standout look was a simple black T-shirt paired with high-waisted pants and a belt tied askew, adorned with just a thin gold chain for decoration.