
The Yohji Yamamoto venue was brilliantly illuminated, with the ceiling transformed to feature hundreds of white strip lights, resembling a gallery lit up for visitors on Adderall — a true visual reset. Yamamoto appeared to be embracing a shift, presenting a more structured, tailored silhouette compared to recent shows, with less drapery, sharper lines, and an overt sense of luxury. Silver and gold embroidery depicting wild animals adorned the garments in delicate wisps, enhanced by gold chains cascading from multiple buttons. The emphasis was clearly on decoration over function, and we were absolutely enchanted by it. The use of roughly tied leather cords and strips was particularly striking, skillfully emulating military frogging. The overall handling of the military theme was both poetic and serene — Yamamoto’s soldiers were merely dressed for the role, with the violence left behind, and their buttons polished to perfection for the parade.