For spring 2017, Maison Margiela set an ambitious goal to “define the role of man in today’s society, his uniform, his armor, and the tactile underpinnings of his sartorial wardrobe.” This vision materialized partly in the form of soft tailoring with visible basting stitches, paired with brogues that transformed into sandals at the back. However, as their spectacular show last January demonstrated, the brand excels when it embraces a cutting-edge, trendy aesthetic. This was evident in pieces like silk shirts and pants with scarf-like prints, detachable shorts-overalls revealing the back, and hybrid shorts-skirt combinations worn with cropped jackets and ankle boots, infusing a refreshing touch of sexiness into the collection. Asymmetrical sweaters and half-jackets revealing the inner workings of the garment paid homage to the deconstructionist roots of a brand whose legacy continues to inspire some of today’s most prominent fashion houses.

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