After several seasons of showcasing his iconic sharp gray suits in highly elaborate productions in an industrial setting in northern Paris, Thom Browne opted for a change of scenery for his summer 2018 collection. This time, he chose the opulent glass courtyard of the Ecole des Beaux Arts, making a bold men-in-skirts statement. This season, the American designer embraced executive chic, dressing his male models in Wall Street-inspired outfits—gray, tailored, sometimes checked, and accessorized with attaché cases—nearly all paired with high-heeled oxford shoes. The proportions were quintessential Thom Browne: cropped jackets and pants, caped ensembles, and those signature pleated skirts.
Many of his models sported buzz cuts, likely adding a rugged edge to the outfits. Yet, camp was unmistakably on their minds; under the designer’s direction, they gazed longingly at a golden shoe displayed at the center of the runway. The show peaked with a playful groom/bride outfit, featuring a black tuxedo in the front and a white gown in the back, complete with bosoms and a bouquet. This look was reminiscent of the campy 1980s half-bride half-groom dancer in Whitney Houston’s “How Will I Know” video. While one might be inclined to read into the show as a commentary on modern masculinity, it appeared that Browne intended it as straightforward fun—just guys in impeccably tailored suits, skirts, and high heels.