Similar to his approach with women’s fashion, Haider Ackermann has established a unique space in menswear. His style is characterized by luxurious, relaxed tailoring with kimono influences, touches of sportswear, and a focus on sloping shoulders and exposed ankles. This distinctive approach has garnered him a devoted following, evident from the presence of stylish attendees like Caroline de Maigret, Luka Sabbat, and Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, as well as the enthusiastic fans who applauded him at the end of his latest show.
For 2017, Ackermann’s collection was captivating, featuring pieces inspired by the flowing sensuality of kimonos. Highlights included a stunning striped kimono, a vibrant blue version adorned with floral patterns, and a yellow variant used for shirts or as a lapel on a white jacket with a singed effect on one side. The standout varsity jackets came in black with a firework motif and in soft pink with yellow ribbing.
Ackermann’s creativity extended to trousers as well. Some designs featured tight horizontal bands, others had legs striped in different colors, double rows of belt loops, blue chessboard patterns, or were stiff cropped tuxedo styles with sporty side stripes. Paired with flat slides or occasionally leopard-patterned brogues, the overall look was quirky and laid-back.
Leaving the Musée Galliera, the venue of the show, one couldn’t help but wonder how exciting it would be to see Ackermann’s excellent color sense and proportion applied to new and unexpected areas.