An industrial pulse, humming and rustling, interrupted by feedback guitar screeches, welcomed us in the crowded, dim basement for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. It felt more like an underground club than a traditional runway venue. The path was barely visible as we maneuvered into position, the mechanical heartbeat lulling us into a false sense of security. A loud drum jolted us into reality as the music and models sprang to life.
I used to frequent heavy metal and goth bars, not necessarily for the music, but for the camaraderie. These were spaces full of misfits and loners. You could wear makeup, dress in women’s clothing, and feel at home. I had a friend who dressed in full metal drag to get served in bars. I was more subtle—just some eyeliner, mesh, and a studded necklace. So Rei Kawakubo’s collection today felt nostalgic. I recognized these boys with attitude, unafraid to wear fishnets and skirts, in their safe haven, the noisy underground bar they called home. Of course, I could never have imagined the couture-like attention to detail and beauty Kawakubo achieved, but it was undeniably comforting.
The atmosphere was electric, and the pace intense, as models marched out one after another, confronting the audience and the photographers. Trousers were rare, with the focus on jackets and accessories, which felt authentic. The trend for gender fluidity was skillfully handled, in a more personal way than most: Kawakubo herself often wears perfecto jackets and black. I’m sure our youths had similar safe places. The final exit saw the models give the photographers the finger before scowling and dashing off. Oh bondage, up yours!