When Rei Kawakubo decides to introduce polka dots, accordion pleats, tartans, or hoodies, she does so with an understated intensity that elevates these items to an unparalleled level of elegance. They transform into the most remarkable versions of themselves, unmatched in the fashion world. This was the electrifying atmosphere at today’s Comme des Garçons spring collection, enhanced by an operatic soundtrack. This season is set to be the highlight at the next Met Gala in 2017, where the theme will honor CDG — the first time the Costume Institute will dedicate its prestigious exhibit to a living designer, breaking a tradition that dates back to Diana Vreeland’s tenure at the museum.
The compact show featured only 17 looks, essentially a curated selection of Kawakubo’s most iconic designs, including vestigial sleeves and more. Known for never repeating herself and always presenting the unprecedented, Kawakubo’s decision to revisit her past work marks a significant departure from her usual practice. The show concluded with applause from Anna Wintour and the Costume Institute’s curator-in-chief, Andrew Bolton, indicating that these designs will grace the Met Gala red carpet — hopefully without the cellophane wrapped around the models’ heads and faces, as captivating as it was.