Dries Van Noten held his men’s show in the same raw, unfinished brutalist space behind the Opera Bastille, where he previously showcased his collaborative collection with Christian Lacroix last season. This space, characterized by concrete balconies and plasterboard walls, was a perfect setting for his theatrical vision this season. The shoes were an extension of the women’s collection: platform heels, glamorous, and gender-bending. These re-interpretations of women’s fashion codes, seen in both fabrics and forms such as silk boxer shorts and devoré shirts, were deliberate re-appropriations. The collection embodied a bold, confident male who nonchalantly wore items from his girlfriend’s wardrobe. This was a man unafraid to make a statement, striding to the music of the New York Dolls and The Stooges.
Backstage, Dries Van Noten emphasized the importance of artifice and theatricality, noting that all the fox furs, jewels, and snakeskins were faux. The entire look was about creating an impression and leaving an impact. This show continued the bold pattern and color clashes of the Spring 2019 collection, showcasing a mastery in layering and glamour. A raw sexuality permeated the collection, with couture-like details that are distinctly Van Noten. The show, accompanied by the music of Suicide, underground icons and pioneers of the U.S. punk scene, promises to influence the mainstream. We eagerly anticipate seeing men donning these looks on the streets.