For his spring 2017 collection, Rick Owens drew inspiration from a Hyacinthe Rigaud portrait of Louis XIV, though you’d be hard-pressed to find any trace of nostalgia or historicism in this stunning lineup. Owens, a modernist in the vein of Helmut Lang and Raf Simons, firmly plants himself in the present with his unique, goth-tinged vision. Building on a theme from January, he kicked off the show with flowing, draped white tops and pants that created ghostly waves as the models walked. He also experimented with bright yellow and orange tops twisted in an arch at the front, reminiscent of a diagram by the legendary draping master Madame Grès. The show then transitioned to another standout silhouette: fitted tops paired with wide-legged, elephantine pants, some made from taffeta. The tops included cropped jackets, tuxedos, and tight T-shirts adorned with geometric embroideries. This resulted in a dignified, elegant, and soulful collection, underscored by Neil Young’s haunting “After the Goldrush” playing in the cavernous Palais de Tokyo, the regular venue for Owens’ fashion marvels.