At Balenciaga’s event today, the stakes were high. This wasn’t just the heritage brand’s inaugural men’s runway show; it was also Demna Gvasalia’s debut in menswear for the label, following Alexander Wang’s brief tenure. Would the fashion critics, who have been effusive in their praise for Gvasalia’s work at Vetements, react similarly? Or would they exercise restraint, giving him time to find his groove? It’s too early to tell. What is clear, however, is that unlike recent significant shifts in menswear — such as Raf Simons’ art-inspired ravers or Hedi Slimane’s sensitive rockers at Dior Homme — there hasn’t been a strong underground demand for what Gvasalia presented today.
Gvasalia showcased extreme enlargements or shrinkages of formal attire, especially double-breasted jackets and coats, seemingly paying homage to the architectural designs of Cristóbal Balenciaga. The collection also included snug ribbed shirts and baseball caps.
Was it shockingly subversive? Yes. Did it deserve Vetements-like acclaim? Definitely. Did the Instagram-cast models appear intentionally out-of-place? Absolutely. But was it convincing? Not particularly. There hasn’t been a grassroots movement, like those sparked by Simons or Slimane, calling for exaggerated shoulders or other fantastical proportions. And the ecclesiastical elements — the gold-trimmed clergy stole in the final look, lacy underlayers, the Jesuit school venue — remain puzzling, although Cristóbal Balenciaga himself was a devout Catholic.
These pieces seemed to channel the spirit of Martin Margiela, Gvasalia’s former employer, with oversized outerwear paired with loose pants. Emulating Margiela is not a bad strategy, though it risks appearing forced and unoriginal.