The first glimpse of Yohji Yamamoto’s collection tonight evoked memories of the iconic 80s photos by Jamie Morgan, styled by Ray Petri, that epitomized the UK and came to be known as the Buffalo style. The 1988 track “Buffalo Stance” by Neneh Cherry, co-written by Morgan, cemented this as both a stylistic and cultural phenomenon. The Buffalo aesthetic, challenging to define, was characterized by the relaxed, rebellious images created for The Face magazine in mid-80s London. This collection hinted at that revolutionary spirit with berets, bold statements, and a touch of fluidity in the skirts and soft silhouettes. Detailing was crucial in Yamamoto’s show today, featuring arts and crafts influences in the fastenings and buttons. Wandering horn button-stands transitioned into handcrafted blocks attached to the front of jackets, nodding to traditional military frogging. The relaxed, oversized volumes also recalled the 80s, being easy to wear and simple to layer. Yamamoto’s continuous exploration of demi-couture techniques was evident in the hand-painting and sculptural elements that were meticulously hand-embroidered and extensively reworked. A romantic vibe infused the collection, highlighted by the soft volumes and the relaxed spirit of potential revolution. Yamamoto’s playful side was still evident, with a coat featuring outward-facing seams spelling out “NAUGHTY YOHJI” on the back. Indeed, Naughty Yohji. And brilliant Yohji. And sensitive Yohji. And poetic Yohji.