As avid admirers of Yohji Yamamoto, known for his unwavering fashion vision and mastery of his craft, it’s challenging to offer criticism. Today’s collection had its brilliant moments and was largely successful in advancing the Yamamoto aesthetic. However, some pieces were perplexing. The prints stood out, featuring vibrant geisha girls and pin-ups amidst floral backdrops juxtaposed with animal prints. The highlight was a floor-length silk skirt adorned with a traditional Japanese wood-block print on leopard jacquard — simply outstanding. Additionally, images of Yamamoto himself, smiling and smoking, printed on shirts and outerwear, are poised to be commercial successes. Yamamoto remains a true rock star. The gender-fluid designs were impressive and a thrilling extension of the Yamamoto repertoire, but some leather pieces seemed irrelevant to the collection, and a segment of loose tailoring with appliquéd zips was an unexpectedly underdeveloped theme that felt unnecessary. Despite the excitement of seeing Yohji experiment with saturated prints and fluid forms, the collection felt somewhat disjointed. Nevertheless, minor issues shouldn’t overshadow an otherwise commendable collection.