Dries Van Noten transported us to an unprecedented venue today, a rarity in the fashion week circuit, and completely subverted our expectations. The space consisted of a series of expansive, pristine white rooms reminiscent of a gallery exhibition. This culminated in a lengthy, intimate corridor awash in hot pink light, creating a unique atmosphere that took us out of our comfort zone and immersed us in the distinctive world of Van Noten’s collection.
This specific intimacy, described by one attendee as ‘friends and family’ (albeit with a hint of ‘friends with benefits’), celebrated the unconventional and male sexuality. Van Noten drew inspiration from James Bidgood’s “Pink Narcissus” and Kenneth Anger, as mentioned in the show notes. This uninhibited masculinity was evident in the boldly printed, exuberant looks that made a powerful statement, all set to the season’s hottest soundtrack: a new rendition of Soulwax’s “NY Lipps” featuring LCD Soundsystem’s Nancy Whang.
Animal prints clashed with vintage florals, photo prints competed with leather and rubber, and traditional florals were adorned with delicate embellishments. It was a styling masterclass that discarded all conventions and redefined the paradigms. The carefree attitude in the outfits was infectious, making us want to shed our dull, conformist clothes upon exiting.
This level of artistry prompts a reevaluation of personal sartorial assumptions, a magic that only Van Noten can evoke. Witnessing him at the peak of his creativity, redefining menswear to be daring and unafraid to break all the rules, was truly inspirational.