Junya Watanabe transported his audience to a secluded tunnel in Paris this morning, an experience that, for those without cars, required navigating some less familiar but mundane roads. His devoted fans had no hesitation in crossing the city in the early morning rain. This authenticity is the cornerstone of Watanabe’s brand and business model. He has been collaborating with other brands long before it became a trend, always executing it so well that it never raises eyebrows. It is expected to see at least five major brands sharing the runway with him, and this season was no different: North Face, New Balance, Canada Goose, Karrimor, and Levi’s were among the collaborators. The show featured a soundtrack reminiscent of 90s Josh Wink acid house and styled UK football casuals, with brands worn like emblems or armor. The collection spanned looks from firemen and security guards to Cyberdog-clad ravers, anchored by plastic-coated high-visibility elements. The highlight was the hybrid backpack-jackets, hinted at last season and now shown in various styles, from jackets to handheld bags—a guaranteed commercial hit that will delight his loyal followers.

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