There’s a bar in Shibuya called Grandfather’s that has been around for over four decades, boasting an extensive vinyl collection. Patrons can request songs by writing the title on a beer mat and giving it to the lady who manages the record player. Her knowledge of the collection and its organization (imagine locating a single disc among 2000 records) is remarkable. The music plays continuously, with each track seamlessly flowing into the next.
The diverse soundtrack at Junya Watanabe’s show today mirrored a great night at Grandfather’s, starting with James Brown and featuring artists like Tom Waits and Keith Richards. The models resembled the kind of crowd you’d find at Grandfather’s—mature, effortlessly stylish, and seasoned. Junya is one of the few designers who confidently showcases a cast of older men. He celebrates the confidence they bring to his clothes and the flair they exhibit on the runway.
The collection featured a mix of men’s wardrobe staples, creatively combined and reimagined: bombers and blazers, perfectos and crombies, jeans and chinos. The combinations were endless. Everyone loves a well-fitted bomber sleeve, but sometimes a more formal look is needed. He gave new life to the phrase ‘business in the front, party in the back’ with impeccably tailored blazers that had back panels replaced with knits and bomber details. The menswear audience, after all, is closer to this age demographic. So, after seeing so much youth on the runway, it’s refreshing to witness the true Junya aficionados who will wear his creations off the runway.