Entering the show space today felt like stepping through a portal into a subterranean dreamscape. The vibrant, hyper-saturated imagined creatures of Peruvian artist Pablo Amaringo created a striking backdrop for the fashion on display. This season, Kenzo’s co-creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon drew inspiration from Humberto’s Chinese-Peruvian heritage, particularly the Tusán people, whose ancestors migrated from Guangdong to Peru in the 19th century. This cultural blend resulted in a stunning color palette and a unique mix of textures.
The menswear collection was designed for travel, featuring outfits ideal for hiking, packed with technical details and transformative elements. Bags were a major highlight, with many designed to be multi-functional and adaptable. Jackets were ingeniously turned inside out, revealing nylon panels and tech-mesh, reminiscent of re-purposed tents.
In contrast, the women’s collection exuded elegance, showcasing numerous faux-fur combinations that even adorned the models’ hair. The voluminous fur gloves were a standout, and the fusion of mohair and faux-hair was delightful. Recycled raffia, incorporating the house’s ‘Earth’ archive print, was effectively used. The show concluded with a mesmerizing display where colored spots blended into one another, bringing the paintings to life, accompanied by a captivating soundtrack from Peruvian producer Tribilin, paying a heartfelt tribute to Humberto’s ancestry.