Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garcons’ collections are often dissected in great detail, which is no shock given their mysterious nature. Her forthcoming retrospective at the Met is set to be the most comprehensive and definitive analysis yet. The preparation for this must be incredibly demanding for the curators and undoubtedly exhausting for Kawakubo herself.
In a characteristic move of defiance, Kawakubo presented a men’s collection that broke away from intense intellectual scrutiny, adult interpretation, and political analysis. She seemed to call for a return to the simplicity and freedom of childhood. Models were adorned with fluorescent bobs in pink, green, and blue — an undeniably emasculating move. Large plastic toy figures such as dinosaurs, trains, trucks, and cars were prominently featured in 3D on the backs of traditional black blazers, aprons, and on the toes of black and white sneakers and high-tops, in collaboration with Nike.
The trousers and shorts grew increasingly voluminous as the show progressed, with some looks dispensing with them entirely, echoing a childlike disregard for restrictive clothing. Black shirts were cropped and tied under jackets, exposing the midriff in a playful twist on gender roles. Later in the show, evening jackets were decorated with black floral patterns.
What prompted this dive into infantilization and sudden nostalgia from Kawakubo? We might never know exactly — and that’s likely the point. On this American inauguration day, it’s clear this collection isn’t about political grandstanding. In other words, not a single orange wig in sight.