The Dries Van Noten show unfolded in an endless tunnel illuminated by red light beneath a railway line on the périphérique. The persistent beat of Iggy Pop’s 1977 iconic track “Lust For Life” played on a loop, creating a hypnotic atmosphere as groups of three to four models strutted down the runway in sturdy leather shoes and boots. A sense of transformation was palpable, with ornate details giving way to innovative silhouettes. Wide-shouldered, pristine overcoats harkened back to the post-punk era of the late 70s and 80s, where sharp tailoring served as a rebellious statement. The ensemble of jeans paired with these overcoats evoked the spirit of British Mods, while a heartfelt tribute to British fabric mills was evident in the coats of arms. The venue itself held historical significance, having hosted Van Noten’s fall 1993 menswear and fall 1996 womenswear collections. This show was not mere nostalgia, but a reflective nod to the past, celebrating forgotten mills and reaffirming Van Noten’s mastery of form.

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