The team at Yohji sported the finest uniforms today—a long black shirt, split at the sides, with the brand’s name and the show’s date and address proudly displayed on the back. It was quintessential Yamamoto, offering a clever twist on contemporary fashion. The brand is in a magical place right now, perfectly aligned with current trends. Yamamoto’s signature style—effortlessly voluminous forms and an oversized, globally deconstructed aesthetic—remains unchanged and is now at the forefront of fashion. Even his preference for street-casting is spot-on, bringing all elements together seamlessly and allowing us to appreciate Yohji being authentically Yohji.
His confidence radiated, as the models met our gaze almost confrontationally, daring us to find fault. Their heads were wrapped in bandage strips, and their hands were bound as if ready to don gloves. It was a masterclass in drapery and layering, featuring perfectly soft tailoring, long-line shirts, and tiny appliqué bells that jingled as they walked. The color palette was mostly classic menswear—naturals, khaki, navy, and black—punctuated by deep violet and flashes of crimson. Military influences appeared in the patched pockets and boiler suits, a familiar sight on the Yamamoto runway.
With complete sartorial confidence, Yamamoto reveals more of his humor each season, referencing himself in both words and images, even playing parts of the soundtrack on his beloved guitar. This season, the final coats featured hand-drawn portraits of Yamamoto himself, with phrases like ‘Wait Until Dark’ and ‘Yohji for Hire.’ One coat humorously declared ‘I Am a Slump,’ a clear joke as he continues to thrive.