With an acoustic guitar soundtrack we assume was played by Yohji Yamamoto himself, the models paraded in predominantly suited looks. Yet, the true charm lay in the intricate details. Shirt collars were presented in unprecedented ways, at times cascading like paint dripping down a wall, and at other times cut into geometric, unexpected shapes, but always managing to remain collars. Jackets also featured transformative elements, with panels unzipped at the back and sleeves sewn atop the shoulder rather than into it—innovations only a quiet master could achieve.
In terms of his graphic texts, Yamamoto was bolder, emblazoning messages like “Japan this is for You” over an appliquéd silhouette of himself on a tailored jacket, and “Save the Manufacture Works” — a clear challenge to the ubiquitous fast fashion plaguing our high streets.
The real brilliance, however, lay in his ability to redefine the traditional concept of a suit. Plackets appeared in unconventional places; trouser details were scattered throughout; vents were cut so high they became mere slits; shirts were triple-layered in corporate pinstripes, and capes were harsh woolen squares clinging tightly to the body.
Enumerating all the specific elements that made this collection both thrilling and subtly subdued would undermine Yamamoto’s essence. It requires time to fully absorb and analyze all the subtle intricacies presented on the runway today, and that was precisely the intention — it’s time to slow down.