A Yohji Yamamoto show inevitably brings certain expectations along with an element of surprise. While he is widely recognized as the master of all things black, crafting garments that flow like poetry, his talent for prints often goes unacknowledged. Devoted followers at his shows strive to embody the Yamamoto aesthetic, proudly wearing his increasingly print-centric designs as badges of honor. Whether it’s full-length photo print coats or unique hand-painted pieces, the specific print matters less than the emotional impact it delivers, which they wholeheartedly embrace.
This season followed suit. The invitation featured a halftone print of clasped hands, later seen unexpectedly positioned on a coat’s side. Yamamoto, who often innovates without due recognition, has a knack for placing prints in surprising locations. Though it might seem minor, for a designer meticulous about every stitch, his choice to shift a print’s placement is significant. A side print, partly concealed by an arm, also alters the wearer’s silhouette, as demonstrated by white circular patches in subsequent looks.
The show took an intriguing turn in the final pieces, showcasing heraldic shields and symbols that appeared to be discharge prints on velvet, reminiscent of medieval tabards echoed by the square-cut fringing on earlier zipped jackets. This serves as a fitting metaphor for Yamamoto’s sartorial knights, who wear his creations with pride.