Observing Kris Van Assche’s Early Work and His 2017 Spring Collection
When I attended Kris Van Assche’s debut show for his now-closed eponymous label at the Espace Commines in 2005, it was clear that pleasing clients was his primary focus. He wasn’t one to create unwearable, avant-garde designs. Fast forward eleven years, and in his prestigious role at Dior Homme, he’s maintained this customer-centric approach, even amidst the frequent designer reshuffles of today. His collections are accessible and understandable.
For the Spring 2017 collection, Van Assche infused his designs with elements of rebellion: harnesses on sleek suits and checked shirts, ankle boots, fishnet tops, and a color scheme dominated by black and hazard-warning red. The models, with their ultra-skinny frames and black nail polish, navigated through a vibrant carnival set.
Themes of alteration and disintegration were prominent, with red overstitching on black suits and brick wall patterns on denim-like fabrics. Some suits featured floral patches, while others were adorned with strings and eyelets, reminiscent of sneakers gone wild. The show concluded with elegant suits accented by dangling threads, evoking the image of wilting pinstripes.
The craftsmanship was exceptional, and the show was brisk and engaging. These Avenue Montaigne punks were far from intimidating; the Dior Homme aesthetic is far too polished to be genuinely rebellious.