“Why is a raven like a writing desk?” This enigmatic phrase adorned the collectible poster and invitation to Walter Van Beirendonck’s fashion show. The Belgian designer, echoing the Mad Hatter from Alice in Wonderland, intended to keep the question mysterious and unanswered. This blend of fairy tale and philosophical depth epitomizes Van Beirendonck’s unique approach to fashion. His youthful, pale models with frizzy hair appeared innocent in vibrant jackets punctuated with holes, but the eclectic mix of textures and patterns also reflected a contemplation of “the current state of the world” while maintaining a playful spirit.
The collection prominently featured jackets and overalls, both perforated and adorned with oversized rosettes and handbag-like buckles. Among the standout pieces were trenchcoat-overalls hybrids, an iridescent blouson jacket emblazoned with “Brutal Beauty,” and matching harnesses. The deliberate pacing of the show allowed the audience to appreciate the specially designed fabrics, including jacquards and a striking raffia used for magnificent overalls, as well as breastplates resembling totemic faces, ingeniously crafted from hair clips by a Brussels artist named Jacqueline.
The finale was particularly impactful, as the continuous procession showcased a diverse array of references that, despite their apparent randomness, ultimately coalesced into a cohesive narrative—yet still did not clarify why a raven is like a writing desk.