Raf Simons Collaborates with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation for Spring Men’s Collection Debut at Pitti Uomo in Florence
Raf Simons showcased his spring men’s collection in Florence today, in association with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, breaking away from Paris and his usual 90s rave culture influences. In this collaboration, Simons integrated numerous photographs by Mapplethorpe—many currently featured in a significant retrospective at LACMA—into oversized shirts, jackets, and pants. He also infused a leather-daddy aesthetic reminiscent of Mapplethorpe’s 70s style, evident in several black leather pieces.
Mapplethorpe, who passed away from AIDS in 1989, was known for his provocative work, merging high and low culture, a theme visible in several nude self-portraits in the collection. His close relationships are highlighted in photos of Patti Smith, Debbie Harry, Laurie Anderson, and various unnamed subjects.
The partnership between Simons and Mapplethorpe seems fitting, as both are celebrated provocateurs with challenging experiences with the Establishment, and a shared affinity for flowers—Mapplethorpe for orchids. Before departing from Dior earlier this year, Simons often adorned his collections with expansive floral displays.